Yohji Yamamoto doesn’t even need to show up in New York for his presence to loom large, both on the runway and as a standout offsite show listed in the cluttered Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week schedule. Started nine years ago, Yamamoto’s semi-annual Y-3 collaboration with adidas continues to grow in popularity, with its newest U.S. flagship opening last month on Chicago’s boutique-ridden Oak Street.
Once again, Yamamoto continues to push his signature loosely flowing threads and asymmetric aesthetic well beyond the visual boundaries of typical form-fitting sportswear. This time, Yamamoto dispersed muted tones of red, blue and green in solid and plaid patterns among his usual palette of blacks and whites. Elongated cardigans and vests, as well as stylish footwear (albeit less formal for the women than in the past), were staples of his Spring 2012 men’s and women’s collections. What continues to be startling about Y-3 is that the label manages to surprise each season despite the expected assumption that Yamamoto’s vintage ready-to-wear sensibility will always play such a prominent role.
Photos: Y-3 Runway Show
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