American designer Ralph Rucci will never be accused of a lack of meticulousness – even the notes provided to guests at his Spring 2010 runway show included a thorough description of the collection’s inspiration, a bio, a run of show listing all 54 looks and credits. This attention to detail, however, is why Rucci stands a cut above his contemporaries with his steadfast devotion to couture, while creating looks that make many women believe that they, too, can wear and own these works of art.
Several pieces in Rucci’s spring collection featured images of the late modern dance choreographer Pina Bausch: her picture a seemingly abstract print when the fabric was still, a large striking presence when flowing. It is evident in these and the rest of his work that Rucci, perceiving the female figure as a three-dimensional palette, understands that the back and both sides of a design is as important as the front. These angles prove to be shockingly different yet cohesive; a white double-faced silk and wool gazar jacket, for example, featured a circular cut maze print that covered nearly the entire left side around the back and part of the right lapel.
Rucci upped the ante in the last third of his
show with exquisitely crafted gowns, particularly those that were Japanese-inspired.
A majestic black and gold kabuki gown resembling a kimono featured an
unexpected shimmering gold sheath underneath. According to his notes,
some of these gowns included hand-woven obi sashes made in Kyoto and created
from elements such as tree sap, and “gold, silver and platinum metal
leaf pounded to 1/10,000 millimeter thin.” Elegant fingerless gloves
by Samantha Nguyen for Chado Ralph Rucci topped off many of the looks.
Photos: A couple of looks
from the show
 |
 |
| White double-faced silk/wool gazar jacket,
black mohair pants |
Black and gold kabuki gown |
Video: Runway Highlights
video by Yuan-Kwan Chan
More New York Fashion Week Spring 2010 coverage from Meniscus:
ARISE: African Fashion Collective: The festive 20-minute show featured four young African fashion designers.
Christian Siriano: Siriano unveiled a women’s Spring 2010 collection inspired by the Mediterranean, with large, lush prints depicting blue oceans and orange volcanoes.
Max Azria: Show guest and actor Mickey Rourke reportedly said of the eponymous label’s latest neutral-colored offerings that they suited all types of women. We beg to differ, Mr. Rourke.
Rebecca Taylor: The designer's women’s collection came across as repetitive and familiar – vintage Taylor, perhaps, but a bit overdone with a spring garden theme. | Video
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